Cloth (geringsing wayang kebo)
Unknown artist, Indonesian; Balinese, Tenganan Pegringsingan; Bali
Cloth (geringsing wayang kebo), 19th century
Cotton, metal thread, indigo; double ikat (geringsing), embroidery
Length: 203.2 cm (80 inches)
Bequest of Miss Lucy T. Aldrich 55.469
The shoulder cloth is patterned by tie-dyeing both warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) yarns before weaving the cloth, a technique known as double ikat. In Indonesia, double-ikat cloth (geringsing) is made only in the village of Tenganan Pageringsingan on the island of Bali. It is used, however, throughout Bali, particularly in the life-cycle rituals that characterize the combination of Hindu and indigenous animist religious beliefs of the Balinese Lengths are worn by participants in rituals, draped in temples, or put around the bride and groom at weddings. Many geringsing designs have been influenced by a double-ikat cloth called patolu by its Indian makers, affordable only to the very wealthy in India and a coveted fabric in Indonesia for centuries.