Unknown artist, Indian; Kashmiri, Kashmir
Jamawar length, late 19th century
Wool double-interlocking twill tapestry weave
Length: 238.8 cm (94 inches)
Bequest of Miss Lucy T. Aldrich 55.329
The captivating movement and colors of the millefleurs (‘thousand flowers’) design was woven in double-interlocked twill tapestry weave, the same time-consuming technique used in the famous Kashmir shawls. An allover patterned Jamawar length or complicated shawl could take three years to complete. There are eighty weft threads per inch, each woven in by hand after long preparations by as many as six specialists. This uncut length might have been intended to make a coat for a man of status. Thin side borders would have been used to delineate either the center opening or the lower edge of the garment. The uninterrupted floral design, however, makes its potential uses boundless.