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Closeup of the center, pink and yellow concentric diamond. Tiny black and cream stripes sit between the diamond’s colored layers, with  thin pink, black, and yellow stripes surrounding the diamond.
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  • Black and cream striped woven blanket with concentric salmon pink and yellow diamonds overtop. The diamond pattern is cut off along the edges and dark green tassels adorn each corner.
  • Black and cream striped woven blanket with salmon pink and yellow geometric patterns draped around a mannequin. The collar is symmetrical and the blanket end’s are overlapped and fastened.
  • A tasseled, striped woven blanket with three columns and rows of concentric diamonds overtop. The stripes are black and cream of varying widths.
  • Black and cream striped woven blanket with concentric salmon pink and yellow diamonds overtop. The diamond pattern is cut off along the edges and dark green tassels adorn each corner.
  • Closeup of the center, pink and yellow concentric diamond. Tiny black and cream stripes sit between the diamond’s colored layers, with  thin pink, black, and yellow stripes surrounding the diamond.
  • Back of a black and cream striped woven blanket with pink and yellow geometric patterns. The blanket has a stiff quality, creating an upright collar when draped around a mannequin.
  • Back side view of a black and cream woven blanket with salmon pink and yellow geometric patterns draped around a mannequin. Three geometric shapes line down the center back symmetrically.

Unknown Maker, Diné (Navajo)

Diyogí n'teel | Chief-Style Blanket (Third Phase)

Maker

Unknown Maker, Diné (Navajo)

Culture

Diné (Navajo), Native North American

Title

Diyogí n'teel | Chief-Style Blanket (Third Phase)
Man's wearing blanket (Chief blanket, phase III)

Year

ca. 1865-ca. 1880

Medium

  • wool,
  • tapestry weave

Materials/Techniques

Techniques

  • wool,
  • tapestry weave

Materials

wool

Dimensions

Width: 141 cm (55 1/2 inches)

Credit / Object Number

Credit

Gift of Mrs. John Sloan

Object Number

42.088

Type

  • Textiles

Publications

  • Books

A Handbook of the Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design

  • Journal

Manual / Issue 18: Nature

 RISD Museum’s Manual 18 Celebrates Nature

In our [Chamoru] culture, inafa’maolek is our most important value. It roughly translates as “to make good for each other.” Inafa’maolek teaches us that all things are connected and related, including people, environments, and all species. Because all things are interwoven, we must always act with guinaiya and respetu, love and respect.  

–Craig Santos Perez, introduction

Manual 18 explores human interactions with the natural world, from frank awe and deep appreciation of the immediate moment to eternal questions and ancient unfinished business. This issue of Manual complements the exhibition Being and Believing in the Natural World, co-curated by Gina Borromeo, Wai Yee Chiong, and Sháńdíín Brown, on view at the RISD Museum now through May 7, 2023.

Exhibition History

Diné Textiles
Nizhónígo Hadadít’eh, They are Beautifully Dressed
Sep 02, 2023 – Sep 29, 2024

Label copy

Note how the nine-spot pattern—a diamond in the center, quarter-diamonds in each corner, and half-diamonds in the center of each side—envelops the wearer in perfect symmetry. This pattern emerged in the 1860s, a tumultuous period for Diné.

In 1864, after burning homes and crops and killing livestock, the US government forced 8,000 Diné on the Long Walk to eastern New Mexico. During their imprisonment there, Diné women continued to weave, despite the scarcity of resources. In signing the Treaty of Bosque Redondo in 1868, Diné agreed to cease war against the US, allow government officials to live within their lands, and permit the construction of railroads through their territory—changes that soon allowed capitalism, Christianity, and the English language to influence Diné life.

Blankets and Baskets
Weavings from the American West
Jul 02, 2004 – Oct 10, 2004

Label copy

This style of Navajo blanket is referred to as “third phase” because of its pattern of stripes embellished with diamond-shaped lozenges and its date, somewhat later than the blanket to the left but still within the Bosque Redondo period (1864-68). The donor’s husband, John Sloan (1871-1951), was one among many American artists, such as Robert Henri and George Bellows, who frequented the artist’s colony at Santa Fe in the 1920s and 30s, painted the New Mexican landscape, and became interested in Indian artifacts. The donor, Mrs. Sloan, owned a shop in New York that sold American Indian objects during the 1920s. In 1931, John Sloan collaborated with Rhode-Island-born writer Oliver LaFarge (1901-63) on the traveling exhibition An Exposition of Indian Tribal Arts (1931-33). Mrs. Sloan gave their collection of Navajo blankets to the Museum in 1942.

Gift of Mrs. John Sloan 42.088

Form, Pattern, and Function
Design in American Indian Art
Dec 04, 1992 – Jan 24, 1993

Label copy

The style of Navajo blanket known as the "chief's" blanket went through three distinct phases of design. The first phase blankets are made with contrasting stripes of white and brown/black, with blue and/or red stripes. This design is similar to the Pueblo-style manta which influenced the early Navajo weavers. As the Navajo became more adept weavers they began to incorporate their own patterns based on basketry designs. First blocks of color were introduced into the ends and centers of the stripes. As the second phase style developed the blocks got larger and eventually were replaced by stepped triangles, characteristic of the third phase chief blanket.

The first textiles woven by the Navajo were used primarily as wearing, sleeping or saddle blankets. The "Chief's" blanket was worn over the shoulders, with the two ends meeting at the front. The characteristic half triangles at each end to the blanket would then meet at the center front, envelopping the wearing in a symmetrical pattern both front and back.

Textile Treasures from the Permanent Collection
1,000 Years of Textiles
Jan 16, 1987 – Mar 01, 1987
Raid the Icebox 1 with Andy Warhol
Apr 23, 1970 – Jun 30, 1970

Image use

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Public Domain This object is in the Public Domain and available under a CC0 1.0 Universal (CC0 1.0) Public Domain Dedication

Tombstone

Unknown Maker, Diné (Navajo)
Diyogí n'teel | Chief-Style Blanket (Third Phase); Man's wearing blanket (Chief blanket, phase III), ca. 1865-ca. 1880
Wool; tapestry weave
Width: 141 cm (55 1/2 inches)
Gift of Mrs. John Sloan 42.088

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