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Z0050815.jpg

Introduction

Cocktail Culture

Ritual and Invention in American Fashion, 1920-1980
April 15 - July 31, 2011

Cocktail drinking inspired a new language of dress and design in the
twentieth century. Distinctly American, the cocktail tradition was
established during Prohibition (1919–1933), when illicit drinking
took place in secret clubs and private residences. The risqué spirit of
cocktail drinking—infused with exclusive company, glamour, and witty
conversation and heightened by the possibility of overindulgence—
continued to energize social entertaining in America through World
War II, postwar suburban culture, the counterculture movements of
the 1960s and 1970s, and the glittering disco era.
This exhibition traces the shifting shapes, materials, and
embellishments of cocktail-inspired attire and barware, highlighting
their elegance and inventiveness with an eye to the rapid social
changes that shaped their design. In the first half of the twentieth
century, for example, a time when hemlines and roles were prescribed,
the cocktail hour created an opportunity for flirtation and social
climbing, and with that a desire for lighthearted yet chic fashion
distinct from formal evening attire and functional day wear. By midcentury
the cocktail dress, as well as fashions in shakers, glasses,
and trays as promoted by women’s magazines and department stores,
attracted design-conscious American consumers.
The flapper, resort wear, the New Look, ethnic dress, the pants
suit, spangled and revealing disco attire—all of these fashions had
iterations as cocktail party attire. The current resurgence of interest
in all things cocktail, including ersatz urban speakeasies, elaborate
mixed drinks, and Tiki bars, attests to nostalgia for the glamour and
role playing of earlier eras and reminds us that cocktail drinking is
a ritual with potent significance in American life and design.
Cocktail Culture is sponsored by Swarovski Elements and Swarovski Consumer Goods Business,
with additional support from The Coby Foundation and the Museum Associates.

Selected Objects

Z0051176.jpg

Gorham Manufacturing Company

Design for Palm Tree Cocktail Set, 1928
Z0048634.jpg

A. & L. Tirocchi, dressmaker and retailer

Black sequined dress with silver diamond detail, ca. 1925
Z0010608.jpg

Christian Dior, designer

Navy silk belted dress with cape collar, ca. 1954
Z0050505.jpg

Charles James, designer

Black silk dress with velvet bow at neckline, 1962
Z0050482.jpg

Jacques Griffe

Black tiered dress with trumpet hem, Spring/Summer 1951
Z0048563.jpg

American

Black silk dress with fringe, ca. 1939
Z0048208.jpg

Norman Norell, designer

Red silk dress with catridge pleated skirt, ca. 1949
Z0049815.jpg

Philip Hulitar, designer

Light brown lace dress, ca. 1950
Z0049820.jpg

Yvette, label

Grey cotton floral halter dress with rhinestone embellishment, 1950's
Z0050487.jpg

Cristóbal Balenciaga, designer

Black suit with three-quarter sleeves, 1951
Z0050744.jpg

Mollie Parnis, designer, design label

Gold sequin pantsuit, ca. 1967
Z0050913.jpg

Brent Sportswear from California, design label

Green patterned man's shirt, 1950's
Z0050817.jpg

Hubert de Givenchy, designer

Orange printed silk chiffon dress, ca. 1970
Z0043258.jpg

Christian Dior, designer

Black silk dress with sash, Fall/Winter 1954
No Image Available

Roy Halston Frowick, designer

Pink silk knit halter dress, ca. 1980
Z0049818.jpg

Norman Norell, Inc., manufacturer

Cocktail Dress, ca. 1969
Z0050485.jpg

House of Chanel, design house

Strapless Lace Dress with Velvet Sash, 1958
Z0050436.jpg

Saul Steinberg, designer

Opera, ca. 1950
Z0054214.jpg

House of Vionnet, design label

Pink silk embroidered chemise dress, 1920s
No Image Available

Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo

Delphos dress, 1900s-1950s
RISDM 61-095-7 v01.jpg

Elizabeth Hawes

Green and olive silk dress with red accents, 1939
Z0009415.jpg

Jean Patou, designer

Brown silk lounging pajamas, ca. 1930
Z0048557.jpg

Jessie Franklin Turner, designer

Lounging Pajamas, 1934-1935
Z0050497.jpg

American

Repeal the 18th Amendment, 1930-1933
Z0050422.jpg

American

Cocktail glass, 1920s
Z0050418.jpg

Lurelle Guild, designer

Canapé Plate, 1933
Z0050480.jpg

American

Black silk chiffon dress, ca.1929
No Image Available

Bergdorf Goodman, retailer

Black silk dress with woven silver floral bands, 1936
Z0050537.jpg

Henri Bendel, retailer

Cream silk dress with beaded fringe, ca. 1927
No Image Available

Probably French

Black silk net dress with gold sequin trim, mid 1920's
Z0012846.jpg

A. & L. Tirocchi, dressmaker and retailer

Length, 1921
Z0050102.jpg

Saks Fifth Avenue, retailer

Women's shoes, ca. 1925
Z0014233.jpg

French

Embellished velvet cloche hat, ca. 1925
Z0050082.jpg

Bergdorf Goodman, retailer

Women's shoes, ca. 1930
Z0051487.jpg

Ducerf, Scavini & Fils, label

Women's shoes, 1925
Z0005685.jpg

B. Altman Co., retailer

Women's shoes, ca. 1930
No Image Available

Delman, label

Women's shoes, 1920s
Z0050039.jpg

Thayer McNeil Co., retailer

Women's shoes, ca. 1930
Z0050133.jpg

Aaron Siskind

Cabaret Strip Dancer, ca. 1937
Z0036021.jpg

Aaron Siskind

Saloon, Small's Paradise, 1937
Z0030165.jpg

James Van Der Zee

Satin and Fur, 1932
Z0039552.jpg

Duncan Grant, designer

Flowers and Leaves furnishing textile, 1936
Z0050473.jpg

Magda Polivanov, designer

Mardi Gras Dress and Bolero Ensemble, ca. 1936
Z0009109.jpg

American

Multicolored floral silk dress and short-sleeved jacket, ca. 1935
Z0050821.jpg

Possibly Mexican

Black-and-white printed cotton ensemble with sequins, 1950s
Z0050310.jpg

Reg. U.S. Pat. Office

Cream dress printed with clover flowers and ferns, 1940s
Z0009500.jpg

Gump's, label and retailer

Cream silk wrap dress with wool embroidery, ca. 1947
Z0050911.jpg

Liberty House, label

Brown floral man's shirt, ca. 1950
Z0005726.jpg

Bally, manufacturer

Women's shoes, ca. 1940
Z0050439.jpg

François Ducharne, manufacturer

Apparel fabric, ca. 1938
Z0050427.jpg

American

Furnishing textile, ca. 1939
Z0050430.jpg

American

Furnishing textile, ca. 1939
Z0050468.jpg

American

Black acetate woman's suit with ruching, ca. 1945
No Image Available

Bergdorf Goodman, retailer

Black rayon dress with white collar and bow, 1941
Z0009355.jpg

John W. Thomas & Co., retailer

Light brown silk twill woman's suit, 1947
Z0009404.jpg

Omar Kiam, designer

Light brown rayon crepe two-piece dress with decorative buckle and cuff embellishment, ca. 1943
Z0050442.jpg

Claire McCardell, designer

Light brown wool strapless dress with coordinate jacket, ca. 1950
Z0050105.jpg

G. Howard Hodge, custom milliner

Black velvet hat with red detailing, ca. 1940
Z0051493.jpg

Unknown artist

Purse with copper colored beads, ca.1950
Z0005192.jpg

Graceline

Black purse with celluloid lid, ca. 1950
Z0048448.jpg

Noveltex Incorporated, manufacturer

Cocktails and Highballs cut-and-sew apron, ca. 1935
Z0049800.jpg

Wohl, label

Cream silk belted dress with floral pattern, ca. 1960
Z0019966.jpg

Estelle Laverne

Trapeze furnishing fabric, ca. 1954
Z0011063.jpg

Pierre Balmain, designer

Black silk long-sleeved dress with peplum, ca. 1950
No Image Available

Christian Dior, designer

Black wool dress with net detailing at back, 1940s
Z0050450.jpg

Simonetta (Duchesa Simonetta Colonna di Cesaro), designer

Cocktail Dress, ca. 1955
Z0050265.jpg

Vincent Mignon, label

Light-green satin dress with corsage, 1950s
Z0050048.jpg

Beth Levine, designer

Women's shoes, 1956
No Image Available

Lilly Daché, designer

White knit cotton gloves, 1955-1965
Z0048440.jpg

Joseph's New York, label

Black feathered hat, 1950
Z0013134.jpg

Elizabeth Arden, designer and director

Black velvet and net hat, 1950's
No Image Available

Coco Chanel, designer

Evening Ensemble, 1967
Z0050443.jpg

Topal-Carlson, label

Green chemise dress with beaded embellishment, ca. 1965
Z0050446.jpg

Mollie Parnis, designer

Yellow, long-sleeved net dress with rhinestone embellishment, ca. 1965
Z0050522.jpg

Cristóbal Balenciaga, designer

Black lace dress with bows and pleating, ca. 1967
No Image Available

Vera Neumann, designer

Striped woven and knit ensemble, ca. 1976
Z0011933.jpg

Marimekko, design house

Dress, 1966
Z0050523.jpg

Adele Simpson (Adele Smithline)

Green floral belted dress, 1972
Z0050796.jpg

Carolyn Schnurer, designer

Black-and-white printed cotton dress, 1955
Z0050437.jpg

Maija Isola, designer

Ataman, 1960
Z0041710.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

Eclipse Zombie Glass, 1957
Z0041711.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

Eclipse Double Old Fashioned Glass, 1957
Z0041712.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

Eclipse Cordial Glass, 1957
Z0041713.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

Eclipse Glass, 1957
Z0041714.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

Eclipse Highball Glass, 1957
Z0041715.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

Eclipse Old Fashioned Glass, 1957
Z0049920.jpg

Wendy Hertz, designer

Orange harem pant ensemble, 1965
Z0050736.jpg

Norman Norell, designer

Cream silk dress with gold buttons, 1971
Z0050448.jpg

Emilio Pucci, designer

Multicolored printed silk knit dress, ca.1970
Z0012088.jpg

Jean Elizabet Muir, designer

Black dotted knit dress with belt, ca. 1975
Z0050426.jpg

François Ducharne, manufacturer

Apparel Fabric, ca. 1925
Z0050090.jpg

A la Gavotte, label

Patterned silk shoes with rhinestone embellishment, ca. 1927
No Image Available

Paul Colin

Compagnie Generale Transatlantique / French Line, 1949
Z0039645.jpg

Martin Munkacsi

Fashion photograph, 1935
Z0050043.jpg

Saks Fifth Avenue, retailer

Women's shoes, 1960's
Z0050267.jpg

Roy Halston Frowick

Black headpiece with silk flower and sequins, 1960s
Z0045616.jpg

Andy Warhol

Committee 2000 Champagne Glasses, 1982
Z0042518.jpg

Roberto Juarez

Cocktail Party, 1981
RISDM 2011-10-2.jpg

Frank Majore

Cocktails, 1983
Z0044551.jpg

Geoffrey Beene, designer

Grey wool dress with rhinestone embellishment, late 1960s
Z0012202.jpg

Oscar de la Renta, designer

Pink and metallic patterned dress with gold trim, 1970
Z0050308.jpg

Adolfo Sardina, designer

White embroidered floral dress with fringed sleeves, ca. 1970
Z0050804.jpg

Pauline Trigère, designer, label

White cotton halter dress with crystal buttons, ca. 1970
RISDM 67-005-8ab.jpg

Maxen-Gantiez, label

Evening shoes, ca. 1925
No Image Available

Georgianna Brown Harbeson, designer

Repeal the 18th Amendment sampler, 1932
Z0047146.jpg

William Orpen

Letter to Dr. and Mrs. Danforth, 1925
Z0048578.jpg

American

Ratify for Repeal, ca. 1933
Z0051652.jpg

Saks Fifth Avenue, retailer

Fashion Illustration (girl with fan), ca. 1925
Z0048561.jpg

Suzanne Talbot, designer

Cellophane cloche, ca. 1930
2010.67.2.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Cordial Glass, 1951
2010.67.3.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Cocktail Glass, 1951
2010.67.4.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Wine Glass, 1951
2010.67.5.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Goblet, 1951
RISDM 2010-67-6.jpg

Russel Wright

American Modern Dessert Bowl, 1951
RISDM 2010-67-7.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Juice Glass, 1951
RISDM 2010-67-8.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Water Glass, 1951
2010.67.9.jpg

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Iced Tea Glass, 1951
No Image Available

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Goblet, 1951
Z0050499.jpg

Mainbocher, Inc., design house

Black lace belt with pink rose detail, 1944
Z0050501.jpg

Mainbocher, Inc., designe house

Black and gold beaded belt with bows, ca. 1942
Z0050103.jpg

Revlers

Women's shoes, 1940's
Z0051491.jpg

Fenton Footwear, manufacturer

Women's shoes, late 1940s
Z0049072.jpg

Gorham Manufacturing Company, manufacturer

Modern Beverage Server and Stirrer, 1959
Z0051133.jpg

American

Printed cotton napkin, ca. 1950
Z0051132.jpg

American

Printed cotton napkin, ca. 1950
Z0051131.jpg

American

Printed cotton napkin, ca. 1950
Z0051130.jpg

American

Printed cotton napkin, ca. 1950
Z0051127.jpg

American

Printed cotton napkin, ca. 1950
Z0051126.jpg

American

Printed cotton napkin, ca. 1950
Z0050813.jpg

Peter Todd Mitchell, designer

Black-and-white checkerboard scarf printed with the signs of the zodiac, ca. 1950s
Z0050091.jpg

Mackay Starr, designer

Women's shoes, ca. 1950
Z0050269.jpg

Mr. John, designer, milliner

Black silk hat with jeweled accents, 1960's
Z0048445.jpg

Elsa Schiaparelli, designer, design house

Taupe velvet hat with embellished net overlay, Early 1950's
Z0050822.jpg

American

Animal print silk twill scarf, ca. 1950
Z0050300.jpg

Paco Rabanne, designer, design label

Purse, ca. 1965
Z0002268.jpg

I. Magnin & Co., retailer

Women's Shoes, ca. 1966
Z0051118.jpg

Mr. John, designer

Yellow-patterned silk turban-style hat, ca. 1960
Z0049722.jpg

William Steig

Drinking Glasses, 1960s
Z0050421.jpg

Dansk International Designs Ltd.

Ice Bucket, 1960
Z0002300.jpg

Yves Saint Laurent, designer, design house

Women's shoes, ca. 1970
Z0050814.jpg

Bianchini, Férier, manufacturer

Apparel Fabric, 1926

More objects +

Exhibition Checklist

Cocktail Culture : Ritual and Invention in American Fashion, 1920-1980

April 15 - July 31, 2011
View Checklist PDF

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