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Introduction

Cocktail Culture

Ritual and Invention in American Fashion, 1920-1980
April 15 - July 31, 2011

Cocktail drinking inspired a new language of dress and design in the
twentieth century. Distinctly American, the cocktail tradition was
established during Prohibition (1919–1933), when illicit drinking
took place in secret clubs and private residences. The risqué spirit of
cocktail drinking—infused with exclusive company, glamour, and witty
conversation and heightened by the possibility of overindulgence—
continued to energize social entertaining in America through World
War II, postwar suburban culture, the counterculture movements of
the 1960s and 1970s, and the glittering disco era.
This exhibition traces the shifting shapes, materials, and
embellishments of cocktail-inspired attire and barware, highlighting
their elegance and inventiveness with an eye to the rapid social
changes that shaped their design. In the first half of the twentieth
century, for example, a time when hemlines and roles were prescribed,
the cocktail hour created an opportunity for flirtation and social
climbing, and with that a desire for lighthearted yet chic fashion
distinct from formal evening attire and functional day wear. By midcentury
the cocktail dress, as well as fashions in shakers, glasses,
and trays as promoted by women’s magazines and department stores,
attracted design-conscious American consumers.
The flapper, resort wear, the New Look, ethnic dress, the pants
suit, spangled and revealing disco attire—all of these fashions had
iterations as cocktail party attire. The current resurgence of interest
in all things cocktail, including ersatz urban speakeasies, elaborate
mixed drinks, and Tiki bars, attests to nostalgia for the glamour and
role playing of earlier eras and reminds us that cocktail drinking is
a ritual with potent significance in American life and design.
Cocktail Culture is sponsored by Swarovski Elements and Swarovski Consumer Goods Business,
with additional support from The Coby Foundation and the Museum Associates.

Selected Objects

Christian Dior, designer

Navy silk belted dress with cape collar, ca. 1954

American

Ratify for Repeal, ca. 1933

Mr. John, designer

Yellow-patterned silk turban-style hat, ca. 1960

Emilio Pucci, designer

Multicolored printed silk knit dress, ca.1970

Mainbocher, Inc., designe house

Black and gold beaded belt with bows, ca. 1942

Mr. John, designer, milliner

Black silk hat with jeweled accents, 1960's

Bergdorf Goodman, retailer

Women's shoes, ca. 1930

Jean Patou, designer

Brown silk lounging pajamas, ca. 1930

Elizabeth Hawes

Green and olive silk dress with red accents, 1939

B. Altman Co., retailer

Women's shoes, ca. 1930

Ducerf, Scavini & Fils, label

Women's shoes, 1925

William Orpen

Letter to Dr. and Mrs. Danforth, 1925

Omar Kiam, designer

Light brown rayon crepe two-piece dress with decorative buckle and cuff embellishment, ca. 1943

Mackay Starr, designer

Women's shoes, ca. 1950

Mollie Parnis, designer

Yellow, long-sleeved net dress with rhinestone embellishment, ca. 1965

American

Furnishing textile, ca. 1939
No Image Available

Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo

Delphos dress, 1900s-1950s

Gump's, label and retailer

Cream silk wrap dress with wool embroidery, ca. 1947

Marimekko, design house

Dress, 1966

American

Repeal the 18th Amendment, 1930-1933

Norman Norell, Inc., manufacturer

Cocktail Dress, ca. 1969

A. & L. Tirocchi, dressmaker and retailer

Length, 1921

Claire McCardell, designer

Light brown wool strapless dress with coordinate jacket, ca. 1950

Topal-Carlson, label

Green chemise dress with beaded embellishment, ca. 1965

Philip Hulitar, designer

Light brown lace dress, ca. 1950

Simonetta (Duchesa Simonetta Colonna di Cesaro), designer

Cocktail Dress, ca. 1955

Saks Fifth Avenue, retailer

Fashion Illustration (girl with fan), ca. 1925

Thayer McNeil Co., retailer

Women's shoes, ca. 1930

Maxen-Gantiez, label

Evening shoes, ca. 1925

A. & L. Tirocchi, dressmaker and retailer

Black sequined dress with silver diamond detail, ca. 1925

Wendy Hertz, designer

Orange harem pant ensemble, 1965

Jessie Franklin Turner, designer

Lounging Pajamas, 1934-1935

Henri Bendel, retailer

Cream silk dress with beaded fringe, ca. 1927

Paco Rabanne, designer, design label

Purse, ca. 1965

Saks Fifth Avenue, retailer

Women's shoes, 1960's

Yves Saint Laurent, designer, design house

Women's shoes, ca. 1970
No Image Available

Lilly Daché, designer

White knit cotton gloves, 1955-1965

Mainbocher, Inc., design house

Black lace belt with pink rose detail, 1944

Elsa Schiaparelli, designer, design house

Taupe velvet hat with embellished net overlay, Early 1950's

Norman Norell, designer

Cream silk dress with gold buttons, 1971

A la Gavotte, label

Patterned silk shoes with rhinestone embellishment, ca. 1927

Adolfo Sardina, designer

White embroidered floral dress with fringed sleeves, ca. 1970

Carolyn Schnurer, designer

Black-and-white printed cotton dress, 1955

I. Magnin & Co., retailer

Women's Shoes, ca. 1966

American

Black acetate woman's suit with ruching, ca. 1945

Pauline Trigère, designer, label

White cotton halter dress with crystal buttons, ca. 1970

Lurelle Guild, designer

Canapé Plate, 1933

Dansk International Designs Ltd.

Ice Bucket, 1960

Charles James, designer

Black silk dress with velvet bow at neckline, 1962

Magda Polivanov, designer

Mardi Gras Dress and Bolero Ensemble, ca. 1936

Jean Elizabet Muir, designer

Black dotted knit dress with belt, ca. 1975

Saks Fifth Avenue, retailer

Women's shoes, ca. 1925
No Image Available

Roy Halston Frowick, designer

Pink silk knit halter dress, ca. 1980

William Steig

Drinking Glasses, 1960s

Fenton Footwear, manufacturer

Women's shoes, late 1940s

American

Black silk dress with fringe, ca. 1939
No Image Available

Georgianna Brown Harbeson, designer

Repeal the 18th Amendment sampler, 1932

Revlers

Women's shoes, 1940's

Aaron Siskind

Cabaret Strip Dancer, ca. 1937

Beth Levine, designer

Women's shoes, 1956

Oscar de la Renta, designer

Pink and metallic patterned dress with gold trim, 1970

Bianchini, Férier, manufacturer

Apparel Fabric, 1926

American

Cocktail glass, 1920s

Roberto Juarez

Cocktail Party, 1981

Duncan Grant, designer

Flowers and Leaves furnishing textile, 1936

Pierre Balmain, designer

Black silk long-sleeved dress with peplum, ca. 1950

French

Embellished velvet cloche hat, ca. 1925

Joseph's New York, label

Black feathered hat, 1950

American

Furnishing textile, ca. 1939

Peter Todd Mitchell, designer

Black-and-white checkerboard scarf printed with the signs of the zodiac, ca. 1950s

Saul Steinberg, designer

Opera, ca. 1950

Aaron Siskind

Saloon, Small's Paradise, 1937

Vincent Mignon, label

Light-green satin dress with corsage, 1950s

Maija Isola, designer

Ataman, 1960

François Ducharne, manufacturer

Apparel Fabric, ca. 1925

Suzanne Talbot, designer

Cellophane cloche, ca. 1930

Unknown artist

Purse with copper colored beads, ca.1950

American

Black silk chiffon dress, ca.1929

Reg. U.S. Pat. Office

Cream dress printed with clover flowers and ferns, 1940s

John W. Thomas & Co., retailer

Light brown silk twill woman's suit, 1947

Liberty House, label

Brown floral man's shirt, ca. 1950

Brent Sportswear from California, design label

Green patterned man's shirt, 1950's

Yvette, label

Grey cotton floral halter dress with rhinestone embellishment, 1950's

Possibly Mexican

Black-and-white printed cotton ensemble with sequins, 1950s

Mollie Parnis, designer, design label

Gold sequin pantsuit, ca. 1967

G. Howard Hodge, custom milliner

Black velvet hat with red detailing, ca. 1940

Elizabeth Arden, designer and director

Black velvet and net hat, 1950's

Bally, manufacturer

Women's shoes, ca. 1940

Graceline

Black purse with celluloid lid, ca. 1950

Cristóbal Balenciaga, designer

Black suit with three-quarter sleeves, 1951

Jacques Griffe

Black tiered dress with trumpet hem, Spring/Summer 1951

House of Chanel, design house

Strapless Lace Dress with Velvet Sash, 1958

Christian Dior, designer

Black silk dress with sash, Fall/Winter 1954

American

Multicolored floral silk dress and short-sleeved jacket, ca. 1935
No Image Available

Coco Chanel, designer

Evening Ensemble, 1967

Hubert de Givenchy, designer

Orange printed silk chiffon dress, ca. 1970

James Van Der Zee

Satin and Fur, 1932

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Goblet, 1951

Russel Wright, designer

Eclipse Zombie Glass, 1957

Russel Wright, designer

Eclipse Double Old Fashioned Glass, 1957

Russel Wright, designer

Eclipse Cordial Glass, 1957

Russel Wright, designer

Eclipse Glass, 1957

Russel Wright, designer

Eclipse Highball Glass, 1957

Russel Wright, designer

Eclipse Old Fashioned Glass, 1957

American

Animal print silk twill scarf, ca. 1950

Estelle Laverne

Trapeze furnishing fabric, ca. 1954

Roy Halston Frowick

Black headpiece with silk flower and sequins, 1960s

Adele Simpson (Adele Smithline)

Green floral belted dress, 1972

Cristóbal Balenciaga, designer

Black lace dress with bows and pleating, ca. 1967
No Image Available

Bergdorf Goodman, retailer

Black rayon dress with white collar and bow, 1941
No Image Available

Bergdorf Goodman, retailer

Black silk dress with woven silver floral bands, 1936
No Image Available

Probably French

Black silk net dress with gold sequin trim, mid 1920's

François Ducharne, manufacturer

Apparel fabric, ca. 1938

Gorham Manufacturing Company

Design for Palm Tree Cocktail Set, 1928

Gorham Manufacturing Company, manufacturer

Modern Beverage Server and Stirrer, 1959

Martin Munkacsi

Fashion photograph, 1935

Noveltex Incorporated, manufacturer

Cocktails and Highballs cut-and-sew apron, ca. 1935

Wohl, label

Cream silk belted dress with floral pattern, ca. 1960

Geoffrey Beene, designer

Grey wool dress with rhinestone embellishment, late 1960s
No Image Available

Delman, label

Women's shoes, 1920s

American

Printed cotton napkin, ca. 1950

American

Printed cotton napkin, ca. 1950

American

Printed cotton napkin, ca. 1950

American

Printed cotton napkin, ca. 1950

American

Printed cotton napkin, ca. 1950

American

Printed cotton napkin, ca. 1950

Andy Warhol

Committee 2000 Champagne Glasses, 1982

Norman Norell, designer

Red silk dress with cartridge pleated skirt, ca. 1949
No Image Available

Vera Neumann, designer

Striped woven and knit ensemble, ca. 1976

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Cordial Glass, 1951

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Cocktail Glass, 1951

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Wine Glass, 1951

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Goblet, 1951

Russel Wright

American Modern Dessert Bowl, 1951

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Juice Glass, 1951

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Water Glass, 1951

Russel Wright, designer

American Modern Iced Tea Glass, 1951

House of Vionnet, design label

Pink silk embroidered chemise dress, 1920s
No Image Available

Christian Dior, designer

Black wool dress with net detailing at back, 1940s
No Image Available

Paul Colin

Compagnie Generale Transatlantique / French Line, 1949

Frank Majore

Cocktails, 1983

More objects +

Exhibition Checklist

Cocktail Culture : Ritual and Invention in American Fashion, 1920-1980

April 15 - July 31, 2011
View Checklist PDF

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