Unknown Maker, Diné (Navajo)

In the mid-1800s, Diné weavers began making garments like this one, modeled after earlier Pueblo mantas. This style was worn by all genders around the shoulders, as a cape or shawl. As shown here, a silver pin could fasten the manta at the wearer’s chest. Women also wore this form wrapped around the body under one arm, fastened over the opposite shoulder, and belted around the waist.

The textiles in this exhibition were made using tapestry weave—all except for the mantas. The manta at left was made using a twill weave, while this one features a twill weave with interlocking tapestry weave. This technique is every bit as complex as those used at the time to create Euro-American couture fashions

Although attributed by cataloguers to the Zuni, this manta may be Navajo-made. It resembles other Navajo fancy mantas of the period. Its bright red color derives from commercially spun and dyed Germantown (Pennsylvania) yarns and dates the piece to after the Navajo internment at Bosque Redondo (1864-68), when these yarns were first distributed.

Gift of Mrs. John Sloan 42.093

The Zuni, like the other Pueblo tribes, wove many of their own textiles. The Zuni weaving tradition differed from the Hopi in that it was the women who did the weaving and embroidery and not the men. They made blankets and styles of clothing similar to the Hopi examples exhibited in this gallery. Unlike the Hopi the Zuni no longer practice the craft of weaving and concentrate instead on silversmithing.