Unknown artist, Italian

In 1498, Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama discovered a sea route around Africa to India, allowing an influx of gemstones to flow from Asia to Europe in the 1500s. New jewelry designs were printed and made available internationally, and techniques were published in works such as Benvenuto Cellini’s 1568 book The Treatises of Goldsmithing and Sculpture.

During this time, European painting and sculpture had a great influence on jewelry design. Many painters included detailed depictions of jewelry in their portraits and other paintings. They also designed jewelry, commissioning goldsmiths and other specialists to execute these designs, which were sold to wealthy patrons.