Unknown Maker, Japanese

Bugaku, the dance element of Gagaku, an ancient form of music and dance in Japan, requires a specific costume. The music, dance, and costumes have their stylistic roots in continental Asia. RISD's Bugaku robe is probably of the "right" style, derived from Korean and central Asian prototypes. It is typically executed in blue, green, or yellow. The "left" style, in contrast, is predominantly in red, the influence here from China or Indochina. Japanese robes typically display many different methods of decoration, as in this costume. The blue squares were dyed onto the cloth to create an interesting colored background; then the piece was embroidered in satin stitch and couching. This differs from the traditional Chinese approach of using embroidery as the only color contrast to a monotone fabric.