House of Chanel, design house
106.7 cm (42 inches) (center back length)
Gift of Mrs. William McCormick Blair, Jr.
One of Chanel’s signature looks today began as early as 1924, when “Coco” adopted a menswear style and textile from her friend Hugh Grosvenor, the Duke of Westminster. Previous to that time, tweed—a nubbly textured twill-woven fabric—was more commonly associated with sporting attire and casual fashions. Chanel commissioned a Scottish mill to produce her yardage, as the fabrics they make, known as Harris Tweeds, are renowned for their subtle color palette and durability. After World War II Chanel’s textile production moved to France, where the House of Lesage creates the complex couture tweeds used for Chanel suits and coats.