Paul Poiret, designer

The enormous popularity of the Ballet Russes in the 1910s and ’20s greatly influenced Parisian art and design, and in particular the fashions of Paul Poiret. The lush fur hem and couched metallic embroidery on this coat suggest a Russian style by way of the costuming of the Ballet Russes, which was itself influenced by Byzantine and folk traditions.

While most of Western Europe was searching for a modern design vocabulary in the early 20th century, Russia carried on many Byzantine styles, in particular the lavish use of freshwater pearls. Close examination of the torso and sleeves reveals scroll-like patterns, with pearls used as borders.