Attributed to Callot Soeurs

This toffee-colored afternoon dress, tightly pleated at the neckline, features billowing sleeves and a deep hem of red and gold brocade. The chiffon overdress floats away from the figure, with the cuffs and center front closure bound with the same brocade as the hem. A romantic black velvet ribbon completes the ensemble, attributed to the Callot Soeurs.

Established as a lingerie and lace business, Callot Soeurs evolved into a leading dressmaking house in the early 20th century. Known for working rare and unusual materials, Callot was among the first designers to use lamé. The narrow silhouette of this dress plays off the ornamented surface and delicate fabrics, illustrating what fashion curator Harold Koda described as the house’s “disciplined modernism.”