Unknown Maker, Indonesian

These Sumatran textiles exemplify the island's extensive range of textile techniques and materials, including metal thread, which is prominent in Sumatra. The Toba Batak waist cloth is a fine example of the subtle use of metal thread to render additional patterns on top of the fine-warp ikat arrowhead pattern. Extra fine metal threads supplemental to the cloth depict the hornbill motif that is ubiquitous throughout indigenous cultures. The long vertical cloths shown here are worn as headdresses by women who wrap the yardage around the top of the head with upswept corners, like points or horns. The aesthetic relates to roofs on houses while also paying homage to the horns of the water buffalo.

Minangkabau weavers devoted their skill and time to producing ceremonial textiles of vivid silk and metallic gold or silver yarns. Variations in the motifs, layout, and colors indicate not only which village the wearer is from, but also marital status, social standing, and number of children.