Unknown Maker, Diné (Navajo)

In the mid-1800s, Diné weavers began making garments like this one, modeled after earlier Pueblo mantas. This style was worn by all genders around the shoulders, as a cape or shawl. As shown here, a silver pin could fasten the manta at the wearer’s chest. Women also wore this form wrapped around the body under one arm, fastened over the opposite shoulder, and belted around the waist.

The textiles in this exhibition were made using tapestry weave—all except this one. This example features a twill weave with interlocking tapestry weave. This technique is every bit as complex as those used at the time to create Euro-American couture fashions.