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Unknown Maker, Nuristani

Jumlo (Dress)

Maker

Unknown Maker, Nuristani

Culture

Nuristani

Title

Jumlo (Dress)

Year

ca. 1949

Medium

  • Cotton plain weave with silk embroidery and metal button,
  • mother-of-pearl,
  • and coin embellishment

Materials/Techniques

Techniques

  • Cotton plain weave with silk embroidery and metal button,
  • mother-of-pearl,
  • and coin embellishment

Materials

cotton, silk, glass, metal, mother of pearl

Geography

Place Made: Pakistan; Place Made: Kohistan region

Dimensions

Center back length: 86.4 cm (34 inches)

Credit / Object Number

Credit

Gift of Dr. Philip Gould

Object Number

1998.88

Type

  • Costume

Exhibition History

It Comes in Many Forms
Islamic Art from the Collection
Oct 23, 2020 – Dec 18, 2021

Label copy

Each jumlo is unique, typically handstitched by the woman who wears it. This maker embroidered sun and geometric motifs in silk on the arms and bodice, embedding mother-of-pearl, metal buttons, and coins around them. The silver coins date from both before and after Britain’s 1947 Partition of India, a traumatic event in the subcontinent. This jumlo was made in what is now northeastern Afghanistan, though the area historically has been part of northern Pakistan and Kashmir. Previously called Kafiristan, the region was renamed Nuristan in 1895 by Pashtun conquerers who converted the people there from age-old polytheistic religions to Islam.

Related Objects

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Unknown Maker, Nuristani

Dress (jumlo)

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Tombstone

Unknown Maker, Nuristani
Jumlo (Dress), ca. 1949
Cotton plain weave with silk embroidery and metal button, mother-of-pearl, and coin embellishment
Center back length: 86.4 cm (34 inches)
Gift of Dr. Philip Gould 1998.88

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