Unknown Maker, North African

Examples of opulent men’s cloaks like this one abound in the Near East, particularly in the northern regions that have specialized in silk production and trade. This aba mimics the construction of the camel bisht but features luxurious materials of silk and gold and intricate weaving techniques. Though sartorial demonstrations of austerity remain prevalent in certain arenas, most of the garments on view in this exhibition reveal the effects of Islamic counter-traditions, one of which proclaims: “When God bestows benefaction upon one of his servants, He wishes the physical sign of that benefaction to be visible on him.” The ruling Islamic courts as early as the 7th century focused increasing attention on the production and personal display of luxurious fabrics as an expression of divine inspiration and favor. Fine textiles and garments circulated widely across the expanse of the Islamic empire, forming a major industry, network of artisanship, and honorific system tying the empire together.

Despite the endorsement of lavish fabrics that comes after Muhammad’s time, vestiges of the hadiths discouraging them persist: the custom of keeping silk from touching the skin remains strong, for example. As an outer garment, this silk aba presumably would have touched another layer of fabric, not the wearer directly.