Probably French

The sumptuous voided velvet of this fitted evening mantelet was inspired by Persian textile designs, a reference that would have summoned for the wearer and her audience associations with exotic splendor, technical skill, and personal refinement. Garments like this one were worn outside and therefore seen by many, and as the Godey’s February 1880 issue makes clear, they were often weighed down with opulent cross-cultural references:

The Mante, or mantelet, . . . is made only of rich materials, such as brocaded or damassee silk, stamped or embossed velvet, or Indian cashmere covered with rich silk embroidery. It is beautifully trimmed with thick lace ruches beaded with jet, elaborate passementeries with tiny plush tassels, full copeaux fringes of waved silk braid, or of chenille with tiny satin balls and elegant network headings; silk embroidery and passementerie ornaments complete the trimmings.