Indonesian Sumbanese, East Sumba

These warp ikat-patterned fabrics illustrate how cultural identity is maintained through weaving familiar types of fabrics and resist dyeing, while cultural adaptations are introduced through diverse iconography. The floral motif flanked by horses seen here suggests the Dutch coat of arms, and indeed the Dutch began importing hinggis, traditional ikat cloth, in the 17th century. Most recently, over the last several decades, tourism has affected how the textile makers of Sumba, an eastern island of Indonesia, relate to their traditional textiles. Rather than creating textiles in two tiers, one for the foreign or tourist market, and one for islanders, the Sumbanese have integrated the effects of marketing into their cultural heritage. Hinggis continue to be worn by men for ceremonial use, while Sumbanese women have adopted them as skirts. Hinggis are also produced for the tourist marketplace in Java, where they feature both traditional and new designs and are purchased primarily as souvenirs or decorations.