Japanese Edo, Japan

One of the “four princes” in Japanese art, the chrysanthemum has many superstitions associated with it and was the subject of many sumptuary laws: only royal persons were allowed to wear its image. It is one of the most popular motifs for crests, and after a period of time its use was allowed beyond the imperial family. The chrysanthemum resembles the sun, and the depiction of the flower as sun is an ancient design motif. It is associated with long life and purity, and because of its beauty there was a tradition in Japan of holding chrysanthemum-viewing parties during autumn. Coupled with bamboo as it is here, it becomes a sign of endurance throughout the seasons. The karaori was reserved mainly for female roles, but could also be worn by sprites and as an underrobe for young courtier-warriors.