House of Worth, design house

In this dress, made for a member of Providence’s Goddard family, the renowned couturier Charles Frederick Worth masterfully manipulated ribbons, draperies, pleated bands, and fringes into an elaborately layered autumnal ensemble. The bodice’s doublet silhouette and the false slashing on the sleeves allude to Renaissance styles. These historical references fluidly mix with contemporary trends, such as the yellow ochre and olive green color scheme (strongly associated with the Aesthetic movement; see the ca. 1880 curtain design at right) and the voluminous folds of the bustle drape and double swags defining the skirt at back. The ruched yellow panel at front closely resembles the festoon-blind window treatment in the illustration at far right.