Unknown Maker, Hausa

The sharp interlacing and bright green motifs on this man’s riga (gown) derive from Islamic and Indigenous imagery. Aska takwas (eight knives), spirals, and abstracted Tuareg crosses signify protection and unity across many North and West African cultures. Originating with the Muslim Hausa group in what is now Nigeria, the riga (agbada in Yoruba, or boubou in Francophone countries) is now worn as a sign of prestige throughout the region by people of various faiths. Its wide sleeves must be rolled up to show the wearer’s hands, signaling his ability to afford a garment made with so much excess material. This example was created around 1870, when silk was an especially valuable commodity in sub-Saharan Africa.