Unknown Maker, Chinese

In early modem Europe, wearing luxurious Chinese and Italian silks displayed both wealth and sophistication. The Ming dynasty Chinese textile is a tapestry weave called kesi. Primarily characterized by its fluid figural compositions, kesi was often used to decorate robes, wall hangings and book covers. In this piece of kesi, the phoenix and peony are auspicious symbols. Europeans were fascinated by the beauty of these figural motifs, but were generally far less interested in their meaning, as can be seen in the formal pattern of peacocks and lions on this Italian velvet dating from the late sixteenth to early seventeenth century.