Chinese Qing, China

Gauze was used instead of satin for summer robes. The open weave of the silk gauze allows the embroiderer to use counted stitch. Counted stitch results in a grid pattern that contrasts with the rounder shapes achieved using other stitches (see the satin stitch on the silk jacket and skirt to the right). RISD's gauze qifu is an imperial under robe and was probably worn at court, perhaps by the emperor himself, as suggested by the many couched five-clawed dragons, a traditional symbol of the emperor.