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Introduction

Artist, Rebel, Dandy

Men of Fashion
April 26 - August 18, 2013

Artist/Rebel/Dandy documents the enduring, global impact of the dandy—that distinctively dressed figure who has pervaded Western culture for more than two centuries. From Beau Brummell in the late 18th century to the international style-makers of today, this character epitomizes the powerful bond between clothing, identity, and creativity. Garbed with great intention and at least a hint of provocation, the dandy is forward-thinking, conscientious, and thoroughly artistic.

This presentation celebrates exquisitely crafted personal ensembles and visual representations associated with individual dandies around the world. The featured personalities are grouped to suggest kinship across chronological and geographic borders under the themes of historians, connoisseurs, revolutionaries, romantics, and explorers. The items on display represent the dandy as an international figure, but they also reflect the tableaux visible every day in RISD’s creative environment. They illustrate how experimental self-invention, the constructive urge to challenge the status quo, and the power of well-crafted clothing work together in the lives of these remarkable individuals who are at once artists, rebels, and dandies.

Selected Objects

A. Sulka and Co., tailor and haberdasher

Collars worn by Francis J. Carolan, ca. 1900
No Image Available

Bernard Boutet de Monvel

"De la Cravate," in Gazette du Bon Ton (no. 5), 1913

A. Sulka and Co., tailor and haberdasher

Collars worn by Francis J. Carolan, ca. 1900

T. Hodgkinson, shirtmaker

Shirt worn by Francis J. Carolan, ca. 1900

Gertrude Käsebier

Baron de Meyer in Shirt Sleeves, 1903

T. Hodgkinson

Shirt worn by Francis J. Carolan, ca. 1900

American

Suit worn by James Adams Woolson (1829-1904), 1880

Kilgour, French and Stanbury Ltd.

Suit worn by Bertrand Surprenant, 1959

Sir William Nicholson, designer

James McNeill Whistler, published 1899 (1897)

Man Ray

Robert Locher, 1920s

Fisk Clark & Flagg, manufacturer

Neck scarf, 1879

Étienne Carjat

Portrait of Charles Baudelaire, ca. 1863

Hoar & Co.

Suit worn by W. F. Whitehouse, ca. 1910

Richard Torry

Sweater worn by Charles and Alan Rosenberg, ca. 1981

Bernard Boutet de Monvel, designer

Le Lion, 1907

Man Ray

Portrait of Comte Etienne de Beaumont, 1925

Hoar & Co.

Jacket worn by W. F. Whitehouse, ca. 1910

American

Coat worn by a member of the Giles Lodge family, ca. 1840

Kaskel and Kaskel

Neck scarf, 1879

Dunlap & Company, hatter

Derby hat worn by Byron Satterlee Hurlbut, Late 1800s

Collins & Fairbanks

Top hat worn by Byron Satterlee Hurlbut, 1899

American

Pantaloons worn by a member of the Giles Lodge family, ca. 1815

French

Bulletin of Fashion, 1853

American

Shirt, late 1700s

Henry Poole & Co.

Riding jacket worn by William Fitzhugh Whitehouse, Jr., 1895

T. Hodgkinson

Shirt worn by Francis J. Carolan, ca. 1900

Fisk Clark & Flagg

Neck scarf, 1879

Alvin Langdon Coburn

Gravure Mark Twain XXII: From Men of Mark, 1913

Édouard Manet, designer

Portrait of Charles Baudelaire, 1863

Cecil Walter Hardy Beaton

The Hon. Stephen Tennant, 1927

Brooks Brothers

Overcoat worn by William Fitzhugh Whitehouse, ca. 1917

T. Hodgkinson

Shirt worn by Francis J. Carolan, ca. 1900

Dunlap & Company, hatter

Derby hat worn by Byron Satterlee Hurlbut, Late 1800s

American

Robe worn by to William Trost Richards, ca. 1850

Robert Cruikshank, designer

Dandies Having a Treat, 1818

American

Coat worn by N. W. Chapin, ca. 1840

Fisk Clark & Flagg

Neck scarf, 1879

American

Coat worn by a member of the Giles Lodge family, ca. 1830-1840

T. Hodgkinson

Shirt worn by Francis J. Carolan, ca. 1900

D. G. Eldridge, Inc.

Shirt worn by Richard Merkin, 1967/1972

D. G. Eldridge, Inc.

Shirt worn by Richard Merkin, 1967/1972

Unknown artist

Collar worn by Richard Merkin, 1967/1972

Brooks Brothers

Collar worn by Richard Merkin, 1967/1972

Beale & Inman

Collar worn by Richard Merkin, 1967/1972
No Image Available

D. G. Eldridge, Inc.

Shirt and collar worn by Richard Merkin, 1967/1972

F.L. Dunne and Company, New York and Boston

Suit worn by Richard Merkin, 1968
No Image Available

Everall Brothers New York Est. 1873

Jacket worn by Richard Merkin, 1971
No Image Available

Chipp NY, New Haven

Suit worn by Richard Merkin, ca. 1965

F.L. Dunne and Company, New York and Boston

Jacket worn by Richard Merkin, 1968

A. Sulka & Company

Shirt worn by G. H. Stone, ca. 1920

A. Sulka & Company

Shirt worn by G. H. Stone, ca. 1920

A. Sulka & Company

Shirt worn by G. H. Stone, ca. 1920

American

Coat worn by Edward Carrington, ca. 1820

American

Coat worn by Edward Carrington, 1820s
No Image Available

F.L. Dunne and Company, New York and Boston

Jacket and vest worn by Richard Merkin, 1968

F.L. Dunne and Company, New York and Boston

Jacket, 1966

F.L. Dunne and Company, New York and Boston

Vest, 1966

Unknown artist

Illustrations from the Journal des Dames et des Modes, ca. 1810
No Image Available

Hawes & Curtis, tailor

Morning suit worn by Richard Brown Baker, 1940

Shelton and Co.

Top hat worn by a member of the Goddard family, mid 1800s

Norton & Sons, tailor

Morning suit worn by Eben S. Doolittle, 1941

Yousuf Karsh

Andy Warhol, 1979

Yousuf Karsh

Le Corbusier, 1954

Yousuf Karsh

Frank Lloyd Wright, 1954

Mitsuhiro Matsuda, designer

Suit, ca. 1986

Adèle Romany

Portrait of Auguste Vestris, 1793

English

A Macaroni Dressing Room, 1772

Brooks Uniform Co., tailor

Suit worn by Michael Strange (pseudonym of Blanche Oelrichs), 1927
No Image Available

Romeo Gigli

Jacket worn by Brian Goldberg, 1987
No Image Available

Romeo Gigli

Trousers worn by Brian Goldberg, 1987
No Image Available

Richard Torry, designer

Men's shirt, 1980s

Dashing Tweeds

The Original, 2002-2012

Dashing Tweeds

Urban Check, 2002-2012

Dashing Tweeds

New Dandy Blue, 2002-2012

Take Six Boutique, retailer

Suit (man's), 1967/1968

Paul Smith, design house

Ensemble worn by Patrick McDonald, 2007-2012
No Image Available

Xoos, design house

Man's shirt, ca. 2010
No Image Available

Palenzo Collezioni, design house

Tie, ca. 2012
No Image Available

Unknown artist

Boutonniere, ca. 2010

Rod Keenan, milliner

Man's hat, ca. 2010

Ferragamo

Reproduction of shoes worn by Andy Warhol, 2010

United Arrows, collaborator

Ensemble styled by Motofumi “Poggy” Kogi, 2010

Sruli Recht, design house

Horset, 2012

Sruli Recht

An Emperor’s New Untangling, 2012

Unknown artist

Ensemble worn by Ignacio Quiles, 1970s

Barker Black, shoemaker

Men's shoes, 2012

Thom Browne

Ensemble designed by Thom Browne, 2013

Kathryn Sargent, tailor

Process jacket and vest, 2012/2013

Iké Udé

Sartorial Anarchy #5, 2013

More objects +

Exhibition Checklist

Artist, Rebel, Dandy : Men of Fashion

April 26 - August 18, 2013
View Checklist PDF

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