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Hubert de Givenchy, Orange printed silk chiffon dress. Gift of Mary Douglas

Cocktail Culture

Ritual and Invention in American Fashion, 1920-1980
April 15 - July 31, 2011
Hubert de Givenchy, Orange printed silk chiffon dress. Gift of Mary Douglas

Introduction

Cocktail drinking inspired a new language of dress and design in the

twentieth century. Distinctly American, the cocktail tradition was

established during Prohibition (1919-1933), when illicit drinking

took place in secret clubs and private residences. The risqué spirit of

cocktail drinking-infused with exclusive company, glamour, and witty

conversation and heightened by the possibility of overindulgence-

continued to energize social entertaining in America through World

War II, postwar suburban culture, the counterculture movements of

the 1960s and 1970s, and the glittering disco era.

This exhibition traces the shifting shapes, materials, and

embellishments of cocktail-inspired attire and barware, highlighting

their elegance and inventiveness with an eye to the rapid social

changes that shaped their design. In the first half of the twentieth

century, for example, a time when hemlines and roles were prescribed,

the cocktail hour created an opportunity for flirtation and social

climbing, and with that a desire for lighthearted yet chic fashion

distinct from formal evening attire and functional day wear. By midcentury

the cocktail dress, as well as fashions in shakers, glasses,

and trays as promoted by women’s magazines and department stores,

attracted design-conscious American consumers.

The flapper, resort wear, the New Look, ethnic dress, the pants

suit, spangled and revealing disco attire-all of these fashions had

iterations as cocktail party attire. The current resurgence of interest

in all things cocktail, including ersatz urban speakeasies, elaborate

mixed drinks, and Tiki bars, attests to nostalgia for the glamour and

role playing of earlier eras and reminds us that cocktail drinking is

a ritual with potent significance in American life and design.

Cocktail Culture is sponsored by Swarovski Elements and Swarovski Consumer Goods Business,

with additional support from The Coby Foundation and the Museum Associates.

Kate Irvin, Laurie Brewer, Joanne Dolan Ingersoll

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Publications

  • Books

Cocktail Culture: Ritual and Invention in American Fashion 1920 - 1980

Related Objects

Suzanne Talbot

Cellophane cloche

Estelle Laverne

Trapeze furnishing fabric

Mr. John

Yellow-patterned silk turban-style hat

A. & L. Tirocchi

Black sequined dress with silver diamond detail

Dansk International Designs Ltd.

Ice Bucket

Topal-Carlson

Green chemise dress with beaded embellishment

Mainbocher, Inc.

Black lace belt with pink rose detail

Saks Fifth Avenue

Fashion Illustration (girl with fan)
  • More objects +

Cocktail Culture : Ritual and Invention in American Fashion, 1920-1980

April 15 - July 31, 2011
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