Persian, India

This sash, or patka, is a prime example of the grandeur of jamawar textiles. Patkas displayed wealth and status, especially for Persian and Mughal men, who tucked daggers and other material symbols of power and wealth into them. Patkas were usually wrapped around the waist two or three times and worn over a jama (coat).

As a jamawar that was not woven in Kashmir but in Persia, this textile narrates a story of trade. Its gold silk ground shimmers, densely overlaid with floral designs contained within the ambi (mango-shaped motif). Westernized paisley motifs derive from the ambi.